Jason’s Tea Diary, Pt 2: Fascinating History of Jing Mai Pu-Erh

June 15, 2020

Part 2 focuses on the history of Pu-Erh tea in Jing Mai. You may also enjoy Jason’s Tea Diary – Jing Mai Pu-Erh: Part I, about our source of Jing Mai Pu-Erh Tea.

Writing & Photography by Jason Chen

In the early morning dawn, the crowing birds are waking up Jing Mai Mountain City, where every day is beautiful.

Sunrise over the mountains with a tea set in Jing Mai, Yunnan — Peaceful sunrise over the Jing Mai Mountains

History of Pu-Erh Tea in Jing Mai

Jing Mai is a Dai transliteration of Xincheng, or “new town.” About 1,000 years ago, the Dai ethnic group moved from Dali to Jing Mai. It was a beautiful place with abundant vegetation and many mountains.

But some people did not adjust well to the new location. They felt that the forest air was unhealthy for them because the environment was very different from where they had lived in the past.

Jing Mai City in Yunnan, nestled in the mountains, is a part of the history of pu-erh tea — Jing Mai City in Yunnan Province, nestled in the mountains

Zhao Nuo La, their chief, found that the fresh leaves of the tea tree could help with this problem, so he instructed the people to grow rice at low altitudes around the village boundaries, and to grow tea at high altitudes in the mountains. Tea-making has been passed down from generation to generation, and the world has been left with many large, valuable tea plantations of thousand-year-old trees, which are now part of the natural ecosystem.

Old Tree (Qiao Mu) tea tree in Jing Mai — Old Tree (*Qiao Mu*) tea tree in Jing Mai

Tea growers here resist following market changes, switching to other high-value crops, or increasing the commercial hype of the tea. They spare no effort to preserve the original ancient trees and the ancient village structures, even avoiding declaring them as world cultural heritage sites to maintain a low profile.

Pu-Erh tea making in Jing Mai, Yunnan — Tea making in Jing Mai, Yunnan

Jing Mai Tea Trees

Jing Mai Old-Tree tea gardens are never treated with fertilizers or pesticides, so the tea trees are naturally deep-rooted and strong.

A few years ago, two ancient trees were selected to be fertilized. As a result, the tea plants died. Ancient tea trees only receive natural irrigation and never receive artificial nutrients.

New leaf growth on a Jing Mai tea plant — New leaf growth on a tea plant

In 1999 many ancient tea trees suffered from frostbite and the damaged parts needed to be sawed off the trunks. However, the next year the old roots grew new branches and continued to thrive. These trees have a strong life force. Using only the best that nature can provide results in the best tea leaves, and as a result, Jing Mai Ancient-Tree teas are highly admired and enjoyed by many people.

Jing Mai Pu-Erh Tea: Maocha, loose tea leaves. — *Maocha*, loose Pu-Erh tea leaves

In 2019 the Pu-Erh tea districts in Yunnan province suffered a drought. This led to a 50% drop in tea production and in the overall output of the Jing Mai tea area.

The shape of the fresh leaves was not as smooth and beautiful as in previous years, but the tea quality was the best of the decade. It had the strongest aroma in ten years, and the sweet, honey lingering flavor was very clear. I want to buy more of this tea to age in storage, to give thanks to the Jing Mai ancient tea garden’s persistence.